The "Tiger" of Ureshino, loved by the Locals, Runs Across the World.
A sake brewery in a hot spring village with a profound history, where the footsteps of Santoka linger
Since its foundation in 1868 in Saga, where the tradition of sake brewing is still thriving, Ide Shuzo, which has long been deeply loved by the locals, is finally introducing its "pride and joy" to the world.
Toranoko, a masterpiece of sake from Ureshino, Saga, that even a wandering haiku poet was impressed by.
Saga Prefecture is located in the northwestern part of Kyushu, and the Saga Plain, which stretches from its southern to eastern parts, is widely known as an important granary in Kyushu.
Sake brewing in Saga dates back to the Kamakura period (late 12th - early 14th century). In the late Edo period (19th century), sake brewing flourished under the encouragement of Naomasa Nabeshima, the 10th lord of the Saga Domain.
Taking advantage of the region's status as a granary, brewing techniques were developed to preserve the deep umami flavor of rice. Saga's sake has come to be highly regarded as a sake that pairs well with Kyushu's unique sweet and spicy cuisine. Saga's sake is often highly acclaimed both in Japan and abroad for the wonderful harmony between its sweet rice flavor and mellow aroma.
Ureshino Town in Saga Prefecture, where Ide Shuzo, a sake brewery founded in 1868, is located, is a hot spring town with a long history. Its sodium-rich bicarbonate spring water is famous for its skin-beautifying properties.
The appearance of the Ide Shuzo evokes a sense of history, and the rich nature of the basin surrounded by mountains seems to support the quality of sake that has been passed down from generation to generation.
The brewery's signature sake, "Toranoko," is said to have impressed the wandering haiku poet Taneda Santoka (1882-1940). In his travelogue, he wrote, "I drank a lot of 'Toranoko,' and it was so delicious." A monument inscribed with a haiku on the theme of Santoka sits on the storefront of Ide Shuzo, allowing one to appreciate the deep connection between the poet and the brewery.
Tigers are creatures that have very deep feelings for their cubs.
Just as tigers love their cubs, we want people to love this sake for a long time. And like a roaring tiger racing across the land, we wish for its name to resound far and wide for years to come. Named with this in mind, the famous "Toranoko" (tiger cub) sake has long been loved, not only by the wandering haiku poet but also by the locals and the people of Saga.
Tea farming in spring and summer, sake brewing in winter. The female president and veteran toji value "brewing sake as a team"
The current head of Ide Shuzo is Ms. Atsuko Azuma, who is the sixth generation. Unusually for a sake brewery, the last three generations have been headed by women.
"I've seen sake brewing since I was a child, so I knew how hard it was to be a sake brewer. But it is something that has been passed down through generations. I took over with the determination to do my best.」 (Ms. Azuma)
Mr. Toshimitsu Yoshimuta has had a 40-year career at Ide Shuzo. In 2023, he took over as a toji (master brewer), and the sake he brewed that same year won a gold medal at the Fukuoka National Taxation Bureau's sake competition. This was a testament to his skill.
What is even more surprising is that all of the kurabito (sake brewers) at Ide Shuzo are also tea farmers.
From spring to autumn, they grow tea as farmers, and in the winter, they focus on brewing sake. Mr. Yoshimuta is not only an award-winning sake brewer but also makes award-winning tea.
He is serious about both sake and tea and is thoroughly committed to and pursues his craft. Mr. Yoshimuta's craftsmanship mentality is what makes his high-level "double production" possible.
"Temperature control is the most sensitive part of sake brewing," says Mr. Yoshimuta. Every year from December to February, when sake brewing is at its peak, Mr. Yoshimuta stays overnight at the brewery, making nightly rounds at 9:00 pm and 2:00 am to control the temperature of the sake. If the sake is not at the right temperature, he pours ice on the outside of the tanks, even in the middle of the night when it is freezing.
Good koji (mold grown on steamed rice) is essential for making good sake, and good steamed rice is essential for making good koji. Adjusting the water temperature and duration during washing and soaking to ensure that the rice absorbs water evenly is a nerve-wracking task. The appropriate soaking time varies from year to year depending on the condition of the rice, so fine adjustments are made repeatedly.
During this time, the kurabito work intensely, watching the clock. It is a time that reflects Ido Shuzo's strong commitment to sake brewing.
The world of sake brewing demands delicate attention and dedication. When I exclaimed to Mr. Yoshimuta, "What a tough job!" he, like a true craftsman, responded with a simple, "It's what we do."
The brewery brews only nine tanks of sake per year, or about 14,000 "isshobin" bottles (1.8 liters each). This sake, the pride and joy of Ide Shuzo, is a rare product that is hard to find outside of Saga.
The most nerve-wracking moment is when the finished sake is pressed. It is only at this stage that the taste of the sake, the balance between sweetness and alcohol, and the overall perfection of the sake are revealed. Mr Yoshimuta's goal is to create a sake with a crisp, clear flavor that harmonizes with food. "The greatest joy for me is when people who drink it say it's delicious," says Mr. Yoshimuta.
There are five kurabito in the brewery, including the toji. Mr Yoshimuta's motto is to brew teamwork among the kurabito by actively communicating with them.
Sake produced in an atmosphere of strong bonds, lively communication, and a strong attention to detail will surely bring joy to those who drink it and make them feel happy and refreshed.
We challenge the world and seek uniqueness. Yet, our goal is to be loved by the locals.
While respecting tradition, Ide Shuzo actively takes on new challenges. In 2024, Mr. Yoshimuta and his team are developing a variety of new products.
"While respecting tradition, we want to take on new challenges and give our brewery a unique character." (Mr. Yoshimuta).
For example, they are planning to brew sake by combining "Saga no Hana" sake rice with "Saga Hagakure yeast SAWA-1", a live yeast, as well as using flower yeast from the "Saga Honoka" strawberries grown in Saga Prefecture.
Furthermore, as an initiative unique to Ide Shuzo, which is also knowledgeable about tea farming, the brewery plans to develop a tea flower yeast and brew sake using it in the future. Despite maintaining the traditions of the local community as well as their own, the brewery remains committed to the development of new flavors and the pursuit of uniqueness.
Ms. Azuma, the brewery representative, has high expectations for the overseas expansion of their signature product, "Toranoko."
"I'm excited to see how people overseas will react to 'Toranoko.' However, I won’t forget that our sake should continue to be loved by the local people as well."(Ms. Azuma)
Even if times change and the stage is expanded to the world, the ultimate goal of Ide Shuzo is to brew sake that the locals will love.
The sake of Ide Shuzo, filled with skillful craftsmanship and love for the community, will travel the world like a running tiger, and will surely be deeply loved by many for a long time.
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