Mission to promote sake culture through friendly competition between the local community and friends
A sake brewery that preserves tradition while embracing the new
Utsunomiya Shuzo has been piling up small efforts and cooperating with its surroundings to bring about big results. The brewery's motto, "Even a small cup of sake can have an infinite flavor if the brewer puts their heart and soul into it," extends beyond sake brewing to encompass all that they do.
The ancient traditional industries remaining in Utsunomiya, a regional city with eyes on the future
Located approximately 130 km north of Tokyo, Utsunomiya is at the center of Tochigi Prefecture in the northern part of the Kanto region, which is part of Japan's metropolitan area.
Utsunomiya attracted attention in August 2023 when it became the first city in Japan in 75 years to open a new streetcar system (LRT). LRT stands for "Light Rail Transit," a next-generation streetcar system. While Utsunomiya is environmentally conscious and looks to the future by opening LRTs, which are in operation in cities around the world, we must not forget that the city also has an industry that preserves its traditions.
The Kinugawa River flows close to the center of Utsunomiya. Near the river, a historic building stands quietly. The fine latticework on the exterior is impressive, and the eaves are decorated with cedar beads, the symbol of a sake brewery. This is Utsunomiya Shuzo, which was founded in 1871 and has been in business for 152 years.
Utsunomiya Shuzo has firmly adhered to its creed, "Magokoro Ikkon (a cup of sincerity). Sake is a manifestation of the brewer's attitude". The brewery has passed down the art of sake brewing with a humble heart, and produces delicious sake with the spirit of the kurabito (蔵人), the brewers.
Utsunomiya Shuzo's sake, which has been brewed with sincerity, was selected as the first-class sake onboard Japan Airlines international flights from 1991 to 2004. It has also been highly acclaimed in domestic and international competitions. This is the result of the kurabito's passion for letting as many people as possible appreciate the goodness of sake.
"My father made our 'Shikizakura' famous. I would like to continue to preserve the traditional flavor, my father's taste, and add my own touch to make it a better sake," said Mr. Shohei Imai, Senior Managing Director and CTO. Mr. Imai is a certified Nanbu Toji（南部杜氏, 杜氏 meaning master brewer), a Shimotsuke Toji (下野杜氏), and a Tochigi Meister (sake brewer) certified by the governor of Tochigi Prefecture as a specialist in koji making.
There are only two certified Tochigi Meisters in sake brewing (sake production operations), and they are contributing to the preservation and succession of excellent skills. In collaboration with high school students, the brewery actively engages in activities such as encouraging the next generation to develop an interest in traditional culture by having them cultivate sake rice and brew sake from it.
The brewery actively participates in local production for local consumption. For example, "Shikizakura Tochigi no Hoshi Junmai Sake" is made entirely from ingredients produced in Tochigi Prefecture, "ARUSHIROI" is made exclusively by women, including rice cultivation, label design, and taste, and other sake products are made in collaboration with the mascot character of the local Utsunomiya area. "I like things that are playful and fun," he said. "If you invite us, we will participate as much as we can. We are supported by the local community, so we actively promote local production for local consumption." (Mr. Imai)
Helping each other, brewing sake together with the local community
Utsunomiya Shuzo's brewing water has long been taken from a well located on the brewery's premises. The water, which springs from 12 meters underground, is the well water from the Kinugawa River, which is fed by the melting snow from the Nikko Mountain Range in the northwestern part of Tochigi Prefecture. The water is suitably soft with a mineral taste.
Utsunomiya Shuzo uses sake rice produced by local farmers especially for the brewery. "My father's friends started the Yanagida Sake Rice Research Association, and it's been 29 years since they founded it. They are carrying on my father's passion for sake rice," Mr. Imai is proud to say that there is no one better than them in Tochigi Prefecture at producing sake rice. Sake brewing has truly been developed in tandem with the local community.
The main sake that Utsunomiya Shuzo produces in cooperation with the local community is the kind of regular sake that can be found in every household. "Shikizakura" is affordable and loved by the locals. The brewery applies the same techniques used to make high-end sake, such as daiginjo, to Shikizakura, which is a regular sake.
The first taste of "Shikizakura" is the sweetness of the water spreading gently in the mouth. Next, the deliciousness of the rice spreads, and finally, you enjoy a crisp, dry taste. Mr. Imai said, "Our predecessors taught us to make dry sake while giving it a sweet taste. We have been making sake by adhering to this principle." The skill with which they achieve this complex flavor is truly impressive.
"ARUSHIROI", a sake produced by women, has a subtle sour taste, making it a favorite among Europeans, especially among women.
Utsunomiya Sake Shuzo maintains the tradition of sake brewing, but it also proactively mechanizes its brewing process where appropriate. The toji and kutabito are working hard to preserve the traditions while mechanizing the brewing process to reduce the workload of the workers. This way, more people can enjoy their sake.
Utsunomiya Shuzo also pays attention to hygiene and quality control. Because sake is destined to be put into people's mouths, special attention is paid to sanitation and safety. Careful attention is paid not only to the sake brewing process, but also to the storage of the sake after bottling and before shipping. The company has invested heavily in equipment and has a large refrigeration and freezing facility on the premises where finished sake awaits shipment.
They also pay attention to distribution, placing importance on face-to-face business dealings. By entrusting the distribution to people, they have known and trusted for many years and whose faces are visible, they have created an environment in which quality does not deteriorate after shipment. Mr. Imai is committed to ensuring that consumers can drink safe sake without worries.
Promote the sake culture and revitalize sake brewing
Thanks to the opening of the LRT, more tourists are visiting the sake brewery.
Tours of the brewery are available upon advance reservation, allowing visitors to experience the sake brewing process and learn about Japanese sake.
Sake-kasu lees produced during the sake brewing process are used in local cuisine. When the brewery begins its brewing process, people come to buy the sake-kasu lees, which they have been eagerly waiting for. They are used for ice cream by Chef Otowa, a leading French chef in Tochigi, who served it to diplomats, and which received rave reviews from French ladies. Sake-kasu lees are reasonably priced and available to everyone, and they are highly valued not only locally but also internationally.
"I would like to promote the sake culture overseas. There are many good things about sake. I want people to know how to drink it, including how to warm it up," said Mr. Imai, expressing his intention to steadily promote it from various angles.
Mr. Imai was involved in the launch of Shimotsuke Toji and hopes that sharing information will improve sake brewing in Tochigi and, by extension, throughout the country.
At the Tokyo University of Agriculture, he met his classmates, seniors, and juniors, who were also aiming to become sake brewers, which inspired him and made him glad to have been born in a sake brewery.
We will brew sake for the locals, loved by the locals, and together with the locals. Through "Shikizakura," we will also promote the good qualities of Tochigi Prefecture. Mr. Imai's efforts are not just for their own sake but are connected to the revitalization of the local community and raises the profile of Tochigi Prefecture.
